During the late summer of 2009, my son and I completed a 5 day canoe trip on the Kedgwick and Restigouche Rivers in Northern New Brunswick. With no portaging and a good fast current,the trip was not particularly challenging. The most we had to contend with were some metre high haystacks through the rapids at Chamberlain Shoals and some fierce headweads between the Rafting Grounds and the take-out at Matapedia, Quebec. But the scenery was absolutely spectacular!
The water was cold and clean and we spotted numerous salmon as we drifted by clear, deep pools. With the steep terrain, numerous gravel bars and miles of swift current and rapids one could almost imagine that we were on a big northern river. We lost count of the number of eagles we spotted and there was plenty of evidence of other wildlife including coyote, otter and moose.
Before starting the trip, we had heard of some tension between Salmon fishers, many of whom pay thousands of dollars to fish the Kedgwick and Restigouche, and canoeists. By time we completed our trip we understood the cause of this conflict. At least twice, we passed a flotilla of "party canoes", the occupants of which seemed more intent on getting drunk and making a ruckus than enjoying the natural beauty of the river. While we were scouting a ledge that we were sure would swamp our canoe, one of these flotillas drifted right by us, over the ledge and into the souse hole below. As expected, the canoes went down and over dumping out the occupants and several cases of beer. A salmon fisher later told us that when the "party boats" go by a pool, the salmon are so spooked that one might as well pack up the rod and go home for the day.
While we camped discretely and lightly on gravel bars for the first three nights, our last night was spent on well used island campsite. The campsite was in a beautiful location near the base of a large rapid. Its beauty was marred however by the horrendous state of the site itself. We spent three hours collecting broken glass (mostly beer bottles), plastic, used toilet paper and general refuse before we even unpacked the tent. I am glad I stowed a pair of work gloves in the oufit. Why is it that people behave like pigs when they camp in the bush?
The Kedgwick and Restigouche Rivers are spectacular and outstandingly beautiful, but something needs to be done to ensure that they are visited and traveled responsibly. This means respecting the needs of all users, but more importantly ensuring that what is left of the natural state of these waterways can be proctected. When we spoke to our outfitter in Matapedia (www.matapediaaventure.com) he told us that efforts were underway to provide the Restigouche with park status and some degree of protection from overuse and abuse. Let's hope that happens sooner rather than later.